Fitted wardrobes are made for one room and one set of walls. That’s what makes them useful, and it’s also why it’s hard to put a figure on them before anyone has seen the space. A pair of alcove wardrobes in a Victorian bedroom is a very different job from a run of wardrobes along the whole wall of a new-build flat, or a wardrobe tucked under the slope of a loft room.
This guide doesn’t give prices. Instead, it sets out the things that move the cost up or down on almost every job, so you know what you’re paying for. It also explains how to compare quotes from different makers, which is often harder than it looks, because each quote may describe a different wardrobe.
Why there’s no standard price
Off-the-shelf wardrobes come in fixed sizes, so they can carry a fixed price. Fitted wardrobes start with a room, not a catalogue. The cost is built up from the size of the space, what goes inside it, the doors, the finish and the work needed to fit it to your walls.
That’s why we don’t quote before a design visit. We visit, measure and talk through the design with you, then send a written quote for that room. Any figure given without seeing the walls, floor and ceiling is a guess, and guesses tend to change once the work starts.
Size and shape of the space
The most obvious factor is size. A wider and taller wardrobe needs more material and more time in the workshop. But shape matters as much as size:
- Straight runs along a flat wall are the simplest to make and fit.
- Alcove wardrobes either side of a chimney breast are two separate pieces, each scribed to its own walls.
- Wardrobes around a bed often include a bridging section of cupboards above the headboard.
- Wardrobes under a slope in a loft room need angled tops and doors cut to follow the ceiling.
- Corners need a plan for the space where two runs meet, so it doesn’t become a dead area.
Ceiling height plays a part too. Floor-to-ceiling wardrobes in a tall period room may need a second row of top cupboards, which adds doors and hinges. Our guide to fitted wardrobes under a sloping ceiling covers the angled kind in more detail.
The inside layout
Two wardrobes can look the same from the outside and cost quite different amounts because of what’s inside. Each part of the interior is made and fitted separately.
- Hanging rails are simple. Double hanging (one rail above another, for shirts and jackets) is still simple, but needs an extra divider or support.
- Shelves are quick to make, though adjustable shelves need drilled sides and fixed ones need fitting at the right height.
- Drawers take the most work. Each one is a box with its own runners and front, and internal drawers need space for the doors to clear them.
- Shoe storage, pull-out trays and dividers each add parts.
It helps to work out what you really need to store before the visit. Count your long coats and dresses, your shirts, your folded clothes and your shoes. A wardrobe planned around what you own is often better value than one packed with features you won’t use.
Doors, drawers and fronts
Doors are a large part of what you see, and they’re a large part of the cost. The main choices are:
- How many doors. More, narrower doors mean more hinges and more fitting, but they also need less space to swing open.
- Hinged or sliding. Hinged doors give full access to the inside. Sliding doors suit rooms where there isn’t space in front for a door to swing. Each has its own hardware and fitting work. See hinged, sliding or open wardrobe doors for the trade-offs.
- Door style. A plain flat door is quicker to make than a framed door with panels. Period rooms often suit a panelled style that matches the existing doors and skirting.
- Top boxes. A separate row of small doors above the main ones adds storage, and adds parts.
Thinking about fitted furniture? We design, make and fit it across London: we visit, measure and talk through the design, then send a written quote. Arrange a design visit.
Materials and finish
We build fitted furniture from moisture-resistant MDF and birch plywood, and we finish it by spray painting or hand painting. Which of these is used where, and how, affects the cost.
Spray painting is done in the workshop and gives a smooth, even finish across every surface. Hand painting can be done on site and is easy to touch up later. Both use paint colours agreed with you. Painting the inside as well as the outside, or using a different colour inside, adds time. Our guides to MDF vs plywood and spray-painted vs hand-painted furniture explain the differences.
The materials and finish for your wardrobe are agreed in your quote, so you can see exactly what you’re getting.
The condition of your walls, floors and ceiling
London homes are rarely square. In a Victorian or Edwardian house, walls lean and bow, floors slope and ceilings dip. Fitted wardrobes are scribed (trimmed to follow the wall) and set level on adjustable feet or a plinth, so they sit tight to the room. The more uneven the room, the more of this work is needed.
Other features add work as well:
- skirting boards, picture rails, cornices and coving that the wardrobe has to meet or be cut around;
- radiators, sockets and switches inside the area you want to fill;
- a chimney breast that needs checking for damp first;
- external walls, where ventilation behind the wardrobe helps stop condensation.
The type of wall matters for fixing too. Solid brick, lath-and-plaster and stud walls each need different fixings. We don’t move radiators or sockets: that’s for your plumber or electrician, and it’s best done before we fit. Read more in fitting furniture to uneven walls and floors.
Access, stairs and parking
Fitted wardrobes are made in our workshop in sections, then carried into your home and fitted. The route in shapes how the sections are made. A top-floor flat with a narrow stair, a tight turn on the landing or a small lift may mean more, smaller sections, and more joins to make on site.
Parking matters in London too. Much of the city is covered by controlled parking zones, and a van may need a visitor permit, a paid bay or a parking bay suspension. Blocks of flats may have booking rules for lifts and loading. None of these is unusual, but they do affect how the day runs, so it helps to tell us about them at the design visit. Our guide to parking for tradespeople in London explains CPZs.
How to compare quotes
When you get more than one quote, check that each one describes the same wardrobe. This table lists what to look for.
| Check | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Sizes and layout | Is it the full width and height you asked for? Is there a drawing or written description of the inside? |
| Interior parts | How many drawers, shelves and rails? Are shelves adjustable or fixed? |
| Doors | How many, what style, hinged or sliding, and are top boxes included? |
| Materials | What the carcass, shelves and doors are made of. |
| Finish | Spray or hand painted, inside and out, and how the colour is chosen. |
| Fitting | Is scribing to the walls, ceiling and skirting included? Who fits it? |
| Other trades | What you need to arrange separately, such as moving a socket or radiator. |
If a quote is much lower than the others, look for what’s missing. Our guide to what a fitted furniture quote should include goes into more detail.
Ways to keep the cost in check
There are sensible ways to bring the cost down without ending up with a wardrobe that doesn’t work for you:
- Use more hanging space and shelves, and fewer internal drawers. A chest of drawers you already own may do the same job.
- Choose fewer, wider doors where there’s room for them to open.
- Keep the door style simple.
- Paint the inside in one colour.
- Have your electrician or plumber move anything that’s in the way before the design is finalised, so the design doesn’t have to work around it.
When you’re ready, get in touch to arrange a design visit. We work across London, and fitting on Saturdays is by arrangement.
Quick answers
Can you give me a price without a visit?
We don’t quote before a design visit, because the cost depends on the room itself: its size, its walls and floors, and the route in. After the visit we send a written quote.
Do internal drawers add much to the cost?
Drawers take more work than shelves or rails, because each one is a box with its own runners and front. Planning the inside around what you store helps keep the number sensible.
Are sliding doors cheaper than hinged doors?
Not necessarily. They use different hardware and fitting work. The right choice depends on the room, especially how much space there is in front of the wardrobe.
Why does an uneven room affect the cost?
Fitted wardrobes are scribed to follow the walls and set level on the floor. The more a room leans or slopes, the more of that work is needed on site.
Do you move sockets or radiators?
No. That’s for your electrician or plumber. It’s best done before the wardrobe is fitted, and it’s worth mentioning at the design visit so the design allows for it.
Related services
More advice
- What a Fitted Furniture Quote Should Include
- Wardrobe Doors: Hinged, Sliding or Open?
- What Happens at a Design Visit
- Fitted Wardrobes Under a Sloping Ceiling
- All advice
This guide is general information about fitted furniture. It isn’t legal, planning or building advice; for those, speak to the council, your landlord or managing agent, or a suitably qualified professional.